Friday, January 9, 2009

TOOLS & SUPPLIES


SUPPLY LIST

1. 3 ring Binder to put Fashion 1A note pages in: label this cover with your name
2. Folder or plastic envelope to put sewing samples, notes and all other work in, label with name
3. Page Dividers, try to find the extra wide ones for use with plastic page covers
4. White computer paper: 8.5”x11” (check your computer printer’s ink levels, don’t be caught without ink!)
5. Glue (small glue stick) or double stick tape and Magic scotch tape, Stapler
6. Note book paper, 3 holes( NOT TORN FROM A SPIRAL BINDER), Black pen, #2 Pencil, eraser

SEWING BOX OR BAG: for sewing equipment & supplies.
Label with your name or color
SEWING Supplies and Tools: all are required

From PCC BOOKSTORE:

COST ITEM
_____ Bobbins and Bobbin case (do not substitute, these are specific to the machine type)
_____ Needles (size 12, industrial needles, do not substitute)
_____ Cone thread (if needed)
_____ TEXTBOOK, required

BUY in GARMENT DISTRICT:
_____ Shears: 8”
_____ Thread snips
_____ Sewing Gauge, 6-inch sewing gauge or small ruler
_____ Measuring tape, flexible, 60 inches long
_____ Tailor’ chalk: (1) Blue or brown for white fabric (1) yellow or white for dark fabrics
_____ Pins, Round head or pearl head dressmaker pins
_____ Seam Ripper, small

PATTERN MAKING TOOLS and SUPPLIES:
_____ Dot paper, 7 yards
_____ Manila paper , 5 yards
_____ Pattern hook, 1
_____ Pattern card, 1
_____ Hip curve, rounded, longer, 24”
_____ See thru ruler, 2x18
_____ Notcher
_____ awl

SEWING MATERIALS:
_____ Muslin: 5 yards
_____ Solid or printed cotton broadcloth (poplin, quilter’s cotton etc.):
• 1 yard for tote bag (may use ½ yard each of two complimentary fabrics)
• 1 yard for skirt #1 (optional – may use muslin)
• ½ yard for skirt #2
_____ Webbing for tote bag handles: 4 feet (1 1/3 yard)
_____ Thread, A cone of neutral color size 50 thread (not muslin color) to match each fabric selected

INDUSTRIAL SEWING ITEMS:
_____ Tweezers: long tip for threading machines
_____ Threading wires: (3 or 4) long, twisted brass wires
_____ Screw driver for foot screw
_____ Machine feet, Pack of 5: double prong, left, right, invisible zipper, regular

BUY FROM HOME SEWING STORE or OTHER FABRIC STORE
_____ Zippers:
• 1, 7” nylon coil zipper for skirt #1
• 1, 9” invisible zipper for skirt #2
_____ Hook/Eye:
• 1 set, flat type (silver) for skirt #1
• 1 set wire loop type for skirt #2
_____ Waistband interfacing: 2.5 yard fusible, with slotted fold line
_____ Regular fusible interfacing:
• 1 yard heavy-weight for bag (optional)

SKIRT PROJECT #1


SKIRT Project
This is a small sample size 8, cotton straight skirt with side and center back seams. The back seamline has a lapped zipper and open slit. The waistband is narrow, with a under lap and hook and eye fasters. There are darts in the back and front. The student will learn to select the correct textile, and develop an understanding of sewing woven fabrics. Challenges in the project are the lapped zipper and waistband application.

The student will learn to sew:

darts of equal length in precise locations
seamlines using both three thread and five thread overlock machines
seamlines using straight stitch machines
waistband applications using 'stitch in the ditch' method
how to sew a lapped zipper
how to sew on a hook and eye

The student will learn the following techniques:

how to prepare a small marker for cutting
how to fuse interfacing using an industrial iron
how to operate the blind hem, three thread, five thread and single needle sewing machines

Materials:
Skirt, #1 sample

o Supplies


 1 yard muslin or solid or printed cotton broadcloth – a.k.a “quilter’s cotton”

 1 cone thread to match

 7 inch nylon coil zipper to match. NO METAL, suitable for a skirt only

 Waistband interfacing, FUSIBLE or iron on only, pre-cut only

 Wasitband sew-in hook and eye (flat type)

Tools and Supplies:
6. Zipper foot – Left sided or double pronged
7. Tailors’ chalk in a color that can be seen when used on skirt fabric
8. Ruler
9. Pins
10. Scissors
11. Bobbin
12. Bobbin Case
13. Thread snips
14. Seam Gauge
15. Scotch tape, 1/2" wide, frosted type

SKIRT PROJECT #2: HOW TO DRAPE A PATTERN



Draped Skirt sample #2

o In class demonstration and student sample, using draping to produce an original sewing pattern

o Use industrial techniques to create pattern and sew sample

o Prepare complete finished pattern on manila paper

o Prepare complete Tech Pack for the skirt sample

o Supplies

 2 yards muslin

 1 ½ yards solid or printed cotton broadcloth – a.k.a “quilter’s cotton”

 1 cone thread to match

 9 inch invisible zipper to match

 ½ yard fusible interfacing, medium weight

 Small wire hook and eye

 Dot Paper: 5 + yards

 Manilla Paper 3 + yards

 Patternmaking tools (as listed)

TECH PACKS


SPEC SHEET


COST SHEET


PATTERN CARD


DRESS FORM

FABRIC / TEXTILES


Textiles: Fibers and Weaves

Fibers
Fibers are used to make yarns that create woven or knitted fabrics.

Natural Fibers
Natural Fibers come from nature, usually plants and animals.
Plant fibers are cellulose based; cotton, linen and ramie are some cellulose fibers.
Animal fibers are protein-based; Wool, silk, and cashmere are protein fibers.

Synthetic fibers
Synthetic fibers are man made from several sources.
Wood pulp makes; acetate, and rayon, so they are cellulose based, even though they are not natural fibers, they will perform similar to linen, cotton and ramie.

Petroleum by-products make polyesters, nylon and others.
Other synthetic fibers are spandex (Lycra) and Acrylic.

Fiber Length
When fibers are created, they are produced in a long, single strand.
Longer stands can produce smoother fabrics.
Silk is a long, natural fiber made from silkworms.
Polyester is a long, synthetic fiber, that can be smooth and round like plastic.

Short fibers
Short fibers are called “staple”. Shorter fibers produce fuzzier fabrics.
Wool and cotton are staples that are naturally produced.
Acrylic is a staple fabric that is man made to feel like wool, but be washable.

Fiber Absorbency
Absorbent fibers are more comfortable to wear than non-absorbent fibers.
Absorbent fibers wick moisture away from the body, and have a cooling affect against the skin.
Synthetic fibers can be made to wick moisture away from the body and dry faster than natural fibers.
Wool is the most absorbent natural fiber, followed, in order, by linen, silk, and cotton.
Synthetic fibers that are moderately absorbent include rayon, acetate, and acrylic.
Synthetic fibers that are least absorbent include nylon and polyester (a plastic).

Weaves
Woven textiles are produces on looms that are now very huge and automated.
Warp is the yarn fastened to the loom at the back and front, wrapped around 'beams' or what originally were wooden poles.
Warp is the grainline of the textile, line grain on wood, it goes 'up and down'.
Weft is the yarn that weaves across the loom, originally 'turning' back at each edge to create a clean border called the 'selvage'.
Weft is the crossgrain of the textile, or cross wise direction.
Selvage is the woven edge of the textile, although modern looms produce a 'fringe' instead.
The selvage may be more dense than the center of the textile, since it creates a strong edge.

The bias direction of a fabric is a 45 degree angle across the warp and weft.
The bias direction will have stretch.
The bias direction may pull, stretch or grow when worn or hung.
Stretch wovens are now made with texturized yarns or Lycra fibers.
This fabric will usually stretch only two ways, as the warp is often of stable yarns.

Knits
Knit textiles are produced on knitting machines with long spools of yarns.
Knits are looped together, rather than woven.
The continuous looping creates a tubular fabric, without a selvage or side.
The sides will be cut and often fused to create edges or selvages.

When horizontal stripes are knit, they are usually slightly diagonal, or not perfectly straight, since they spiral around the tube of fabric.
These interlocking loops provide fabric stretch in the 'cross grain' direction.

When a thread is clipped, it will create a run that unravels down the fabric.
Recovery is the term used for how much a knot bounces back when stretched apart.
Single knits are made with a single yarns, "t' shirts are common single knits.
When lycra is added, it can create a two-way stretch that pulls in both directions (side-to-side and top-to-bottom).

Double knits are made with more than one set of knitting needles or hooks.
This type of knit seems to be very firm and thick.
Interlock knits are double knits that feel smooth on the face and back of the fabric.

Rib knits have a vertical groove. This is created by alternating two styles of stitches: knit and purl.
There may be one or more stitches in each “set” or groove. This creates the width of each rib.
Rib knits are used in crew neck collars, cuffs, and turtlenecks because it stretches well.

Wales is the term used to describe the vertical grooves in this fabric.

FASHION TERMS


The Following TERMS are grouped by topic and technique.
Write a clear description of each term, include what it is, or how it is used.
Hand drawn illustrations may be included.
Do not use the 'cut and paste' method to copy words already posted online or in books.
Your writing MUST be in your own words.
Failure to use original wording will result in an "F" grade, and is considered PLAGERSIM: an illegal practice at PCC.
All work must be submitted in computer typed format:
font: Ariel or Times Roman
size: 10 or 12
paper size: 8.5" x 11", white only
cover page: for each group, prepare a cover page that lists the assignment, instructor, date, and your name.

LIST ONE: topic, SEWING TOOLS

Needles (discuss all types)
Pins
Pin Cushion
Ruler
Scissors
Shears
Seam Ripper
Sewing Gauge
Tailor’s Chalk
Tape Measure
Thread Snips
Bobbin
Bobbin Case
Zipper Foot
Thread: both domestic and cone variety

LIST TWO: FABRIC

Muslin
Broadcloth
100% Cotton
Polyester
Woven fabric
Knit fabric
Cross Grain
Bias
On Grain
Selvage
Woof
Warp
Weft
Yard
Grain

How are the following measured?
Fabric width
Fabric length

LIST THREE: the SINGLE NEEDLE STRAIGHT STITCH industrial sewing machine
Find a drawing or photo of an industrial machine.
Locate each item listed below with an arrow.

Bobbin Winder
Slide Plate
Feed Dogs
Fly Wheel
Stitch Regulator
Presser Foot
Tension Disk
Tension Dial
Throat Plate
Lock Stitch: type
Foot Pedal
Knee Lift
Belt
Oil Pan
Thread Stand
Top Tension
Bottom Tension

LIST FOUR: Sewing Terms

Explain what this is and what is the purpose or use:
¼ inch seam allowance
½ inch seam allowance
5/8 inch seam allowance
1-inch seam allowance
Top Stitch
Basting
Edge Stitch
Back Stitch
Ease Stitch
Blind Hem
Stitch-in-the-Ditch
Ease
Dart

Define:
Seam Allowance
Gathering
Clean Finish Edges

LIST FIVE: Industrial OVERLOCK or SERGER sewing machine
Locate photos of each machine type:

3 Thread Overlock Machine
5 Thread Overlock Machine
Serger
Merrow Machine
Blind Hem Machine
Cover Stitch Machine

Describe the following items:
Looper
Chain Stitch
Threading Wire
Tweezers

LIST SIX: CONSTRUCTION, PATTERNS and TECHNIQUES
Define the function or purpose and technique for each:

Clipping Curves
Notching Curves
Understitch
Tuck
Grading Seams
Interfacing: types, Fusible and Sewn
Block Fuse
Grading (patterns)
Contrast
Dot Paper
Flat Sketch/Production Flat
Grain Line (on pattern)
Manila Paper
Marker (not a writing utensil)
Notch (on a pattern)
Pattern
Pattern Card
Punch Hole
Self
Swatch

LIST SEVEN: GARMENT DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION
Include illustration(s) with each written definition.
You may find that one drawing can illustrate several terms at once, use arrows.

Facing
Pocket: types
Under Collar and Upper Collar
Gathered Skirt
Waistline
Side Front and Side Back
Center Front and Center Back
Set-in Sleeve
Flat Sleeve Construction
Cuff
Princess Seam
Darted Bodice
Skirt Front and Skirt Back
Waistband
Hem: types of
Zipper: types of
Buttons: types of
Button holes: types of

FASHION MATH



Measuring Systems Used in the FASHION INDUSTRY

Inches, Feet and Yards

1 FOOT = 12 INCHES
2 FEET = 24 INCHES
3 FEET = 36 INCHES
4 FEET = 48 INCHES
5 FEET = 60 INCHES
6 FEET = 72 INCHES

1YARD........3 FEET or 36 INCHES
7/8 YARD.....31 ½ INCHES
¾ YARD.......27 INCHES
5/8 YARD.....22 ½ INCHES
½ YARD.......18 INCHES
3/8 YARD.....13 ½ INCHES
¼ YARD.......9 INCHES
1/8 YARD.....4 ½ INCHES

1/3 YARD = 12 INCHES or 1 FOOT
2/3 YARD = 24 INCHES or 2 FEET


Fractions of an Inch
An INCH may be divided into equal measurements.
4 parts ..………….QUARTER of an inch
8 parts ..………….EIGHTH of an inch
16 parts..…….….SIXTEENTH of an inch
32 parts... …….THIRTY-SECOND of an inch

Fractions and Decimal Equivalents

1/16....0.0625
1/8.....0.125
3/16....0.1875
¼.......0.25
5/16....0.3125
3/8.....0.375
7/16....0.4375
½.......0.5
9/16....0.5625
5/8.....0.625
11/16...0.6875
¾.......0.75
13/16...0.8125
7/8.....0.875
15/16...0.9375

Fashion Careers and College Transfer


COLLEGE TRANSFER
Locally, students in the Fashion Department at Pasadena City College may find easy transfer to several public and private universities within driving distance.

It is important to draft out an ED PLAN that lists every course required for transfer, so that when it is time to transfer, the going is 'easy'.

Usually students will take a GENERAL EDUCATION (GEN ED) program, with survey courses from many academic areas that takes about 4 semesters or 60 units.

Courses at PCC that are accepted as being equal to another course at a university are ARTICULATED. This is the term to ask for when making out your Ed Plan.

PUBLIC COLLEGES and UNIVERSITIES

Cal State University, Northridge

Cal State University, Los Angeles

Cal State University, Long Beach

Cal Poly Pomona

PRIVATE COLLEGES and UNIVERSITIES

Otis College of Art and Design

Woodbury College

Students who want to 'go away' to college within the state, will find these colleges have Fashion programs:

Cal State University, San Francisco

Cal State University, Fresno

University of California: Davis

Fashion Certificates


CERTIFICATES

Certificate: FASHION – Design

The curriculum prepares students for the apparel industry. Instruction is offered in all phases of industrial clothing construction, patternmaking, fashion design, and technical sketch. Computer studies are also part of the required curriculum. Studies include fashion trends, design principles, ethnic costume, color theory and the understanding of the apparel industry. Marker making, cost sheets, and production sketches are part of the technical skills learned.

The Fashion Design option will prepare the graduate to work in a design room as assistant designer, junior designer, merchandiser, stylist, illustrator or graphic artist. A design room internship is part of this training program in design. Studies include advanced design and illustration, computer assisted illustration, historical and ethnic costume studies; along with current color and textile trends in the apparel industry. A portfolio of designs and a fashion collection is part of the final requirements.

A Certificate of Achievement is awarded upon completion of all required courses with a grade of C or better.

Requirements for the certificate: 4 semesters (44 units):

Semester I
Fash 1A
Fash 21
Fash 2
Fash 110

Semester II
Fash 111A
Fash 1B
Fash 107A
Fash 108

Semester III
Fash 9
Fash 107B
Fash 111B
Fash 115

Semester IV
Fash 130
Fash 111C
Fash 124 or Fash 109

Recommended electives:
Fash 1C, 128A, 128B, 128G, 128I

Certificate: FASHION ASSISTANT

The curriculum prepares students for the workplace environment with skills required to work as an assistant to a fashion designer, merchandiser, stylist, production manager, or design room manager. The coursework covers essential skills in apparel construction, flat pattern and draping. Introduction to apparel industry concepts, and design principles will also be taught. Fashion sketch, spec sheets, production flats, and costing are part of the training program. Upon completion of the required courses, the student will have a working vocabulary and basic knowledge of the apparel industry.

A Certificate of Achievement is awarded upon completion of all required courses with a grade of C or better.

Requirements for the certificate, 2 semesters (24 units):

Semester I
Fash 1A
Fash 21
Fash 2
Fash 110

Semester II
Fash 111A
Fash 1B
Fash 107A
Fash 108

Recommended electives:
Fash 9, 115, 124, BIT 10, 11A, 25, 100, 102, BUS 9, 170, Mrktg 20, 125, 128
Thart 10A, 10B, 15

Certificate- Custom Clothing

Upon completion of the requirements, the student will be able to pattern and construct original garments to fit a specific customer or dress size. Employment as a custom sewing technician, bridal or formalwear, alterations and personal fit patternmaker would be attainable for work in an existing business, free-lance or as a self-employed entrepreneur. The curriculum emphasizes clothing construction, alterations, patternmaking by both the flat and draped methods.

An Occupational Skills Certificate is awarded upon completion of all required courses with a grade of C or better.
Requirements for the Occupational Skills Certificate (16 units):

Fash 1A
Fash 1B
Fash 107A
Fash 1C
or Fash 107B
Fash 108
Fash 128I

Recommended electives:Bus 116, Fash 21, 107C, 109



Certificate: Fashion Marketing

The curriculum prepares an individual for the workplace environment with skills that apply to the business of apparel sales, assistant in a manufacturing or marketing business, or other position where knowledge of the apparel industry and general business principles are an advantage.

With this background, the student may choose to work in retail or wholesale buying or sales, prepare visual presentations , and contribute to styling, display, and marketing ventures.

An Occupational Skills Certificate is awarded upon completion of all required courses with a grade of C or better.
Requirements for the Occupational Skills Certificate (17 units):

Fash 2
Fash 21
Fash 9
or Fash 124
BIT 102
BIT 109
Bus 9
Bus 10
or Mrktg 20
or Mrktg 125

Recommended electives: Fash 1A


Certificate: Historical Costume Making

Upon completion of the requirements, the costume student will be prepared to pattern, cut and sew historical costumes. The use of industrial sewing equipment, patternmaking, tools and materials are part of the training program. Historical costumes will be studied and created by the student as part of the program to train students to enter the field of costume technician or sewer.

This training serves to offer the basic skills required to qualify for employment in a costume business, or as a costume assistant. Studies in the history of fashion, both modern and historical clothing construction , alterations, and patternmaking by draped methods are part of the course of study.

An Occupational Skills Certificate is awarded upon completion of all required courses with a grade of C or better.
Requirements for the Occupational Skills Certificate (17 units):

Fash 1A
Fash 1B
Fash 108
Fash 124
Fash 128G
Fash 107A
or Fash 1C
Recommended electives: Fash 107B, 107C, Thart 15

Monday, January 5, 2009

WRITTEN PROJECTS and GRADE SHEET LIST




Fash 1A -- Written Projects

• Vocabulary Assignments
o Worksheets that help identify industrial sewing, fabric, draping, and patternmaking tools and terms
o Will be e-mailed out to you to print out, or download from the FASH 1A blog

• Skirt Tech Pack
o This is the Final Project
o This represents an industrial document.
o The Tech Pack will be turned into the instructor in notebook form.
o The finished skirt will be included in the notebook.

• Math Work Pages
o Demonstrate understanding of mathematical computations and applications.
o Know and apply fractions and measurements.

• Project Design Sheets
o Apply design and textiles to original ideas drafted to show details that include textiles.

• Notebook for Written Assignments
o A well organized notebook with table of contents, title page and dividers labeling each chapter or section will be comprised of the following parts:

 Class notes
 Diagrams drawn during demonstrations
 Project Design sheets
 Grade sheets for each sewn project
 Vocabulary assignments
 Math work pages
 Samples mounted on white pages and labeled, with written instructions
 Any additional assignments or work pages

• All projects and assignments will earn full points ONLY when turned in at the deadline.

• A project or assignment will be reduced 10% (one full grade) for each day it is late.

• Mistakes and Errors can be corrected and turned in within one week for a grade increase. Each
corrected mistake or error will earn ½ of the original score.

• Absences Make-up:
o Lab Hours Make-up Time: with instructor’s permission, students may be able to attend another section
of Fash 1A or other lab course to complete projects.

 Attending faculty must sign form showing attendance

 Supervising faculty should advise student before they attend another section.

 Students must not disrupt another section or work alone when lab is not in use.

 NO WORK MAY BE COMPLETED AT HOME or by another person.

FASH 1A FASHION SURVEY 4

Fash 1A -- Grade sheet list

PROJECT GRADE
• Vocabulary Assignments
• Tech Pack
• Math work pages
• Project Design sheets with textile swatches
• Samples: Mounted on pages, labeled
• Bag
• Skirt sample #1
• Skirt Pattern from drape
• Skirt sample #2 from drape (includes pattern)

• Lectures ATTENDANCE: 0 absence=A, 1=B, 2=C
(more than 2 absence = drop from class)
• Labs ATTENDANCE: 0 absence=A, 1=B, 2=C
(more than 2 absence = drop from class)
• tardies = 5 minutes or later, 2= ONE absence
• leaving early = 1 tardy